Preparing The Car For Winter: Typical Mistakes Of Car Owners

Winter is coming, which means it’s time to prepare the car for the cold. Everyone runs to car stores for winter tires, washer, scrapers, etc.

However, one should not forget that in addition to these absolutely necessary things, it is necessary to ensure the technical readiness of the car. Today we’ll talk about what you definitely don’t need to do with the car when the winter season comes.

Wrong rubber

Photo fototelegraf.ru

Not every tire called “winter” is equally suitable for the harsh Russian winter. If with studded tires everything is clear, then with the fashionable nowadays “Velcro” is not so unambiguous. The fact is that there are two types of them, and you must take this into account when buying.

The first, the so-called “European” or “Alpine” “Velcro”. These tires are designed for temperate continental climates and are designed primarily for good grip on wet asphalt or melting snow. In conditions of severe frost and icing, they begin to behave like an all-season, which is far from safe.

Therefore, even the manufacturers themselves are not recommended to use these tires in our latitudes. The second, of the Scandinavian type, are already suitable for our climate. They have developed side blocks, a lot of lamellas and a special composition of the mixture, which most of all reveals its properties with a decrease in temperature.

LEDs from China

The closer winter is, the earlier it starts to get dark outside. And here, in an attempt to improve the light of standard headlights, car owners put LED lamps, as a rule, these are various Chinese products from Aliexpress. But in no case should you do this!

Chinese LEDs

Photo indrive.net

Reflectors of standard headlights are structurally not designed to work with LEDs. In addition, these products do not yet shine with quality. As a result, we have an irregular light beam, a torn light border, and dazzle of oncoming drivers. And in the dark and on wet asphalt with them it is completely dangerous – absolutely nothing is visible.

There are other, much more effective measures for improving light. This is polishing of dull glass of headlights, replacing lamps with similar ones with increased luminous efficiency, checking the wiring and adjusting the angle of light on a special stand. But certainly not Chinese LEDs.

Rubber mats

It would seem that rubber mats in winter are more practical than textile ones – you can safely climb into the salon in dirty and wet shoes, without fear that moisture will get on the carpet. However, by no means everything is unambiguous. Firstly, the melted snow on your boots will quickly create a puddle under your feet, and you will constantly squish your soles in it while riding, which is not very pleasant.

Secondly, you need to have the talents of a magician in order to get out of the car, without spilling anything past, a full rug of water. Thirdly, a puddle left in the trough will cause increased humidity in the cabin, which directly leads to permanent fogging of the windows.

Oddly enough, but textile rugs are better in this regard. They absorb moisture evenly and dry out just as evenly. And their rubberized base will not let the “cocktail” of water and reagents get onto the carpet. And the salon looks much neater with them.

Engine oil

Photo 24mechanic.ru

The choice of engine oil will also affect the normal start of the engine. Most modern engines are excellent at assimilating multigrade oils with viscosity indexes 5W40, 5W30, and so on. The first number in this case denotes the viscosity during a cold start. The lower it is, the better the fluidity of the lubricating fluid will be at low temperatures.

A critical error in the selection of oil in the northern regions, where the temperature can drop to -30 degrees and below. There, “filling” the engine with oil with an index, for example 10W40, is completely undesirable – it will be hard for the engine. A much more successful selection would be the use of oils with indexes 0W30 or 0W40, they will provide the necessary pressure in the system and a reliable oil film.

However, in any case, you must first of all focus on the manufacturer’s tolerances and take the lower limit of the permissible viscosity class for frosts.

Warm up or not?

Photo bezformata.com

For decades, there has been a debate among motorists about whether to warm up the engine or not. Some argue that modern cars are prescribed to start moving immediately after starting. Others tell them that it will not be useful for the motor at all, and that it is necessary to warm up the motor until it reaches operating temperature, no matter how long it takes.

And the truth is she is in the middle. It’s really not worth starting right away in the cold – you need to wait at least a few minutes (for example, while clearing the car of snow). This is enough for the lubrication system to enter operating mode. Then you need to drive a couple more kilometers without increased engine load.

But standing for half an hour and waiting for the cooling fan to work, poisoning neighbors in the yard with exhaust gases, is also quite pointless. All the same, some time will need to move without much zeal to warm up the transmission.

See also: How long to wait? Why can’t you drive immediately after starting the engine

Winter is coming, which means it’s time to prepare the car for the cold. Everyone runs to car stores for winter tires, washer, scrapers, etc.

However, one should not forget that in addition to these absolutely necessary things, it is necessary to ensure the technical readiness of the car. Today we’ll talk about what you definitely don’t need to do with the car when the winter season comes.

Wrong rubber

Photo fototelegraf.ru

Not every tire called “winter” is equally suitable for the harsh Russian winter. If with studded tires everything is clear, then with the fashionable nowadays “Velcro” is not so unambiguous. The fact is that there are two types of them, and you must take this into account when buying.

The first, the so-called “European” or “Alpine” “Velcro”. These tires are designed for temperate continental climates and are designed primarily for good grip on wet asphalt or melting snow. In conditions of severe frost and icing, they begin to behave like an all-season, which is far from safe.

Therefore, even the manufacturers themselves are not recommended to use these tires in our latitudes. The second, of the Scandinavian type, are already suitable for our climate. They have developed side blocks, a lot of lamellas and a special composition of the mixture, which most of all reveals its properties with a decrease in temperature.

LEDs from China

The closer winter is, the earlier it starts to get dark outside. And here, in an attempt to improve the light of standard headlights, car owners put LED lamps, as a rule, these are various Chinese products from Aliexpress. But in no case should you do this!

Chinese LEDs

Photo indrive.net

Reflectors of standard headlights are structurally not designed to work with LEDs. In addition, these products do not yet shine with quality. As a result, we have an irregular light beam, a torn light border, and dazzle of oncoming drivers. And in the dark and on wet asphalt with them it is completely dangerous – absolutely nothing is visible.

There are other, much more effective measures for improving light. This is polishing of dull glass of headlights, replacing lamps with similar ones with increased luminous efficiency, checking the wiring and adjusting the angle of light on a special stand. But certainly not Chinese LEDs.

Rubber mats

It would seem that rubber mats in winter are more practical than textile ones – you can safely climb into the salon in dirty and wet shoes, without fear that moisture will get on the carpet. However, by no means everything is unambiguous. Firstly, the melted snow on your boots will quickly create a puddle under your feet, and you will constantly squish your soles in it while riding, which is not very pleasant.

Secondly, you need to have the talents of a magician in order to get out of the car, without spilling anything past, a full rug of water. Thirdly, a puddle left in the trough will cause increased humidity in the cabin, which directly leads to permanent fogging of the windows.

Oddly enough, but textile rugs are better in this regard. They absorb moisture evenly and dry out just as evenly. And their rubberized base will not let the “cocktail” of water and reagents get onto the carpet. And the salon looks much neater with them.

Engine oil

Photo 24mechanic.ru

The choice of engine oil will also affect the normal start of the engine. Most modern engines are excellent at assimilating multigrade oils with viscosity indexes 5W40, 5W30, and so on. The first number in this case denotes the viscosity during a cold start. The lower it is, the better the fluidity of the lubricating fluid will be at low temperatures.

A critical error in the selection of oil in the northern regions, where the temperature can drop to -30 degrees and below. There, “filling” the engine with oil with an index, for example 10W40, is completely undesirable – it will be hard for the engine. A much more successful selection would be the use of oils with indexes 0W30 or 0W40, they will provide the necessary pressure in the system and a reliable oil film.

However, in any case, you must first of all focus on the manufacturer’s tolerances and take the lower limit of the permissible viscosity class for frosts.

Warm up or not?

Photo bezformata.com

For decades, there has been a debate among motorists about whether to warm up the engine or not. Some argue that modern cars are prescribed to start moving immediately after starting. Others tell them that it will not be useful for the motor at all, and that it is necessary to warm up the motor until it reaches operating temperature, no matter how long it takes.

And the truth is she is in the middle. It’s really not worth starting right away in the cold – you need to wait at least a few minutes (for example, while clearing the car of snow). This is enough for the lubrication system to enter operating mode. Then you need to drive a couple more kilometers without increased engine load.

But standing for half an hour and waiting for the cooling fan to work, poisoning neighbors in the yard with exhaust gases, is also quite pointless. All the same, some time will need to move without much zeal to warm up the transmission.

See also: How long to wait? Why can’t you drive immediately after starting the engine

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